Osaka Castle
My plan was to get an early start and head to Osaka Castle.
My plans have changed. I didn’t get up as early as I thought I might. It is getting hot already. I am going to pivot and take a morning of rest.
I will read in your pleasant and spacious room instead. I am going to keep fresh for the festival tonight.
I will go to a sentō nearby that accepts tattoos later today. This hotel does not have an onsen and I miss taking a bath.
Onsen / Sentō
I understand now why Hisashi mentioned a difficulty he experienced while living in the States was not having access to baths.
It will certainly be one of the things I miss the most about Japan when we return home.
Hisashi’s Wonderful Blog Post
While lazing around reading, Hisashi forwarded me a link to a blog post that he had written shortly after the last time we had visited in 2017.
This eloquent piece written in both Japanese and English wonderfully summarizes a very special time we had together during my last visit to Japan.
Bath Time
I went to the local bath that accepts tattoos. I love the baths. Owen didn’t want to join me. He is a little self conscious.
This bath had five big tubs. One of them was “very hot” another was “very cold”. The others were a mixture of “just right”, some with jacuzzi jets.
One of the things that is so pleasant is you don’t feel like an outsider anymore in the bath. Everyone just goes about his business and it feels like you are a participant in society even as a foreigner.
Because I need to find public baths (sentō) that allows tattoos, I had a particularly interesting experience. Three of the men in the baths were Yakuza, members of the Japanese mafia. Their entire bodies were covered in very elaborate tattoos. Their tattoos stop just before the wrists, calves, and neck. One of the guys was my age and the two others couldn’t have been much older than Noah. It was amazing and somewhat shocking to see. I did my best to mind my own business.
Tenjin Matsuri Night 2
On the second evening of the festival, they move the floats onto boats and barges which they parade up and down the river.
This festival celebrates the god of literature, writing, and studies. Students pray to Tenjin (Sugawara Michizane) to do well on tests.
We purposely set out to find a spot on the perimeter of the festival to avoid crowds during the fireworks. This festival is so big and there are so many people, we still found ourselves surrounded by people, food and game stalls, and happy energy.
It was relaxing to sit on the river bank and watch the procession float by.
We ate yakitori (meat on a stick) from a stall and I had the takoyaki (octopus croquettes) that I had been looking forward to. It was delicious.
we realized that we did not have the view of the fireworks that we were hoping for so we walked into the belly of the festival.
There were so many people that it is indescribable. Everyone was looking their best and having a great time.
The fireworks went on for over an hour so we had time to navigate our way through the people to a spot that wasn’t too crowded and still had a view.
After the fireworks, we sat by the river and watched the procession continue to float by.
What a party. It was the biggest festival I have ever attended and it was entirely comfortable and orderly. So fun.