Category: Japan 2023

Today is a travel day. The trains are so fast here that we barely have time to gaze out of the window.

We have a 4 hour trip today. 2 hours on the Shinkansen bullet train and 2 hours on a Japan Rail line.

Owen and I are both happy to kick back, tune out, and watch the country go by for a while.

The trains worked out perfectly although it was somewhat hectic making our reservations. Today is Saturday and it seems like more people are traveling these days as we get into the school holidays.

The bus from Tanabe would not get us to our inn before checkin closes so we grabbed a taxi. It has been a beautiful drive along the river.

We are encouraged because it doesn’t feel as oppressively hot as it had been in Miyajima.

Kirinosato-Takahara

This inn is indescribable. We are on the mountain-side looking down on a village. They are having a festival down below and I can hear drumming.

Our host is very lively and animated. He was very excited to tell us we have arrived at a very special time. There will be fireworks that we will be able to enjoy from the mountain side.

I think that he said they haven’t had this festival for thirty-three years or have it every thirty-three years. Regardless, I take it we are very lucky to be here tonight.

The inn has a Spanish theme so we feel right at home. Owen is hoping that dinner tonight will also be Spanish themed.

The inn might be have this style because the Kumano Kodo trail which we will begin hiking tomorrow is the sister trail to El Camino de Santiago de Compastela. We picked up passports at the tourist office that we will have stamped along our journey the next four days. If we are ever to make the pilgrimage in Northern Spain, we will be considered “Duel Pilgrims”. This is yet another reason to make that dream a reality some day.

Dinner

Dinner could not have been nicer. It was mostly meat and featured delicious spare ribs.

A special course was paella made with Japanese rice. We’re spoiled.

After dinner, our host treated us to flamenco guitar.

Now, everyone at the inn is eagerly awaiting fireworks. I learned that this festival rotates between the many villages throughout this mountainous area. It has been thirty-three years since “our” village has hosted.

We are waiting for the fireworks while listening to a village storyteller spinning his yarn .

Coincidentally, while waiting, we saw “Starlink” go by. Neither Owen nor I had seen it before.

We are experiencing something very special.

Owen emphasized that he ate his entire dinner even though he had back-up sandwiches in the room. A to top things off he joined me in a late night bath.

The natural onsen here is small but very nice.

It’s a delightful 75 degrees now and we are continuing to enjoy our evening.

Tomorrow, we hike.

Our “activity” today involves riding a shuttle bus for three minutes part way up the mountain.

From the station we will board a “ropeway” to the top which is essentially a gondola.

At the top of the second ropeway was an observatory from which we could see around the island.

Owen wasn’t interested in hiking much more today but I wanted to explore the Buddhist temple mostly to find the “eternal flame”.

I ventured on despite the heat.

Just before the summit lays the temple.

There was a tour group within the shrine of the Eternal Flame but I pressed my way in. A tour guide was serving tea out of the pot that stood on the pyre. It was hot a smokey but smelled great because the wood was incense cedar. I joined the group for tea. The guide seemed pleased to have me there.

Behind the pyre was an idol with another flame. I assumed the flames were akin to each other.

This flame is said to have been kept burning for 1200 years! A Buddhist monk named Kobo Daishi is said to have brought the flame up the mountain on a pilgrimage. It is the same flame that they transported to Hiroshima to light the fire at the Peace Memorial Park.

It is also said that this is considered “The Lover’s Sanctuary” because “this miraculous fire is something akin to the eternal fire of love.”

I lit a candle for Michele and me.

After visiting this shrine, I thought that I must return for Owen. That is until I saw this little guy at the head of a pathway.

I couldn’t resist following such a path so I texted Owen and he told me he didn’t have any problem waiting for me.

Secret Path

The path ducked back into the forest and follow around and up the back side of the summit.

Most every other tourist took the main path to the top. I definitely chose the path less traveled. I came across several little shrines and monuments on my way up.

Eventually, the path wound around and up to the summit of Mt. Mizen.

I texted Owen and he could see me on the summit from the observatory station.

Exposed to the sun at the top of the mountain, I began sweating more than I have ever sweat in my life.

I headed back down the mountain.

On the decent, I started hearing drumming. At first I thought that another drummer had joined the band because I was listening to a Grateful Dead live recording.

When I paused the music, the drumming continued. I followed the sound to a Buddhist “mass”. I took off my shoes and joined those gathered.

I didn’t want to interrupt by taking a picture but I did make a recording.

By the time I made it back to Owen, I was sopping wet with sweat. I was exhausted but I was so happy to have had such a powerful and fun experience.

we made our way back down the ropeway and headed to a restaurant we knew was good. I was famished and Owen had to pre-load before dinner.

We knew we wanted to try Hiroshima style Okonokyaki with beef. It was delicious

We had a delightful dinner together even Owen didn’t care much for the food. It is almost entirely fish based.

This place is gorgeous.

Owen has even agreed to join me in the bath this evening.

Master of the “clam shell” obi knot

I think that saw a tanuki tonight. It was a small and scurried off before I could get a picture of it.

Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum

This morning we are going to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. At the start of this trip, I told Owen that we did not have to visit a lot of museums but we would be visiting this one.

I understand that a visit to this museum is a very visceral an individual experience and it is suggested to not take pictures but to be as present as possible. That is what we will do.

After our museum visit, we will make our way via ferry to the island of Miyajima.

Miyajima

We are in Miyajima for the next two days. Most people visit this island for a few hours on a day trip. I decided it might be worth staying a couple of nights and I believe I made a great decision.

Miyajima is famous for its sea bound torii gate. It is considered one of the three greatest views in Japan. It is the only one of the three that we will see this trip.

The island is also renowned for its “wild” deer.

We arrived just before checkin at three and decided to have drinks near the ferry terminal. We were then picked up by a shuttle service for the inn.

Ryokan

We are staying at a Ryokan which is a traditional Japanese inn. It is beautiful. The grounds are stunning and we are within just minutes walking distance from everything we will want to see and do.

Owen was somewhat nervous because the last ryokan in which we stayed we were doted on. All of the attention made Owen nervous.

I was looking forward to being pampered again. This is a nice compromise. The inn and the grounds are far superior but the service is not as attentive.

The pressure was off of Owen at dinner. He hasn’t taken to seafood like I was hoping he might. Because we weren’t served food in our room and attended to throughout the meal, he and I could easily swap plates when I finished my sashimi and indulged myself on his.

After dinner, we took a walk while they set out our futons. Owen was looking for a snack. I was stuffed with two dinners.

It was a beautiful evening.

Most all of the tourists leave the island before dinner. Most all of the shops and restaurants close down before dark. We almost have this paradise to ourselves.

The shuttle driver told us that we might see a “raccoon dog” in the evening which I know is how Japanese describe the tanuki. I have always wanted to see a tanuki. We kept our eyes peeled but did not encounter one… yet.

Bath

Taking a late night bath afforded me the opportunity to take a picture of the inn’s beautiful onsen. I had the bath to myself.

The creek runs along the outdoor onsen.

I believe that both the indoor and outdoor baths are fed by natural hot springs. The stools are for showering stations. One must shower before the bath and showering is great with cool water during bathing.

This morning I intended to use the bath after breakfast and before we started traveling to Hiroshima.

I walked the fifteen minutes to the bath only to find they don’t open until 2:00.

I assumed the bath would

Be open in the morning. I assumed incorrectly.

By the time I got back to the hotel, I might as well have jumped in the bath with my clothes on. I was drenched with sweat.

I showered back at the hotel and now we are traveling to Hiroshima. I wish the luxurious, air conditioned train ride were longer. It is only an hour.

We loved Osaka but are keen to travel again.

Hiroshima

We made it to Hiroshima and our hotel. I agreed to go to pizza tonight because our next two nights after tonight are going to be traditional kaiseki meals.

I asked Owen to go to the lobby and ask the hotel clerk to make us a reservation. I’m glad that I did, because they had only one space available this evening at 6:00.

I don’t really understand fancy pizza places but we enjoyed our meal that was prepared and presented with great care.

Peace Park

I told Owen that we would enjoy a nice evening stroll through the park and save the “heavy stuff” for tomorrow. I wasn’t anticipating how impactful the Peace Park would be.

We made our way toward the Genbaku Dome and came across the Children’s Monument along the way.

There were children praying there and we did the same. The tone was set for the rest of the evening. The park is beautiful, important, and serious. Tonight would be more than a stroll through the park.

Genbaku Dome

The Genbaku Dome was one of the only structures left “standing” after the blast at ground zero. It has been left as a reminder of the devastation. Seeing it brought immediate nausea and tears.

We worked our way from the dome over the the Peace Park. It was a lovely and quiet evening. By this time, we were quite somber.

It is incomprehensible than the beautiful city of Hiroshima was entirely rebuilt after 1945.

The park is a quiet place filled with staggering memorials. There are places where once proud temples were reduced to a stone block or two.

We were stunned to discover a lovely grass knoll and then to read that is the burial mound of the ashes of over 10,000 people who had died instantly in just this area.

We made a prayer for peace at the Fountain of Prayer and then called it an evening.

On our way out of the park, we came across a statue of a woman trying to shield her children.

It was not exactly the type of evening walk that I had in mind, but it is one of the most significant experiences I have ever had.

Osaka Castle

My plan was to get an early start and head to Osaka Castle.

My plans have changed. I didn’t get up as early as I thought I might. It is getting hot already. I am going to pivot and take a morning of rest.

I will read in your pleasant and spacious room instead. I am going to keep fresh for the festival tonight.

I will go to a sentō nearby that accepts tattoos later today. This hotel does not have an onsen and I miss taking a bath.

Onsen / Sentō

I understand now why Hisashi mentioned a difficulty he experienced while living in the States was not having access to baths.

It will certainly be one of the things I miss the most about Japan when we return home.

Hisashi’s Wonderful Blog Post

While lazing around reading, Hisashi forwarded me a link to a blog post that he had written shortly after the last time we had visited in 2017.

This eloquent piece written in both Japanese and English wonderfully summarizes a very special time we had together during my last visit to Japan.

Nakagawa-sensei’s post

Bath Time

I went to the local bath that accepts tattoos. I love the baths. Owen didn’t want to join me. He is a little self conscious.

This bath had five big tubs. One of them was “very hot” another was “very cold”. The others were a mixture of “just right”, some with jacuzzi jets.

One of the things that is so pleasant is you don’t feel like an outsider anymore in the bath. Everyone just goes about his business and it feels like you are a participant in society even as a foreigner.

Because I need to find public baths (sentō) that allows tattoos, I had a particularly interesting experience. Three of the men in the baths were Yakuza, members of the Japanese mafia. Their entire bodies were covered in very elaborate tattoos. Their tattoos stop just before the wrists, calves, and neck. One of the guys was my age and the two others couldn’t have been much older than Noah. It was amazing and somewhat shocking to see. I did my best to mind my own business.

Tenjin Matsuri Night 2

On the second evening of the festival, they move the floats onto boats and barges which they parade up and down the river.

This festival celebrates the god of literature, writing, and studies. Students pray to Tenjin (Sugawara Michizane) to do well on tests.

Tenjin (天神)

We purposely set out to find a spot on the perimeter of the festival to avoid crowds during the fireworks. This festival is so big and there are so many people, we still found ourselves surrounded by people, food and game stalls, and happy energy.

It was relaxing to sit on the river bank and watch the procession float by.

We ate yakitori (meat on a stick) from a stall and I had the takoyaki (octopus croquettes) that I had been looking forward to. It was delicious.

we realized that we did not have the view of the fireworks that we were hoping for so we walked into the belly of the festival.

There were so many people that it is indescribable. Everyone was looking their best and having a great time.

The fireworks went on for over an hour so we had time to navigate our way through the people to a spot that wasn’t too crowded and still had a view.

After the fireworks, we sat by the river and watched the procession continue to float by.

What a party. It was the biggest festival I have ever attended and it was entirely comfortable and orderly. So fun.

We are using this morning to regroup a little. Owen and I are both a little travel worn. It did not help that our room was somewhat unsatisfactory. We have asked for a new room and they will move our things while we are out today.

We have decided to spend the morning doing our own things and meet back this evening to see about heading to Dontonbori or to the festival area this evening.

Dontonbori

I made it over to Dontonbori and it was crazy hectic… fun but hectic.

I have noticed that Osaka is quite a bit different than anywhere we have been in Japan. It is a little more “rough around the edges”.

The people are louder and more outgoing. Owen and I agreed that it is somewhat more comfortable for us. We don’t feel that we have to check our manners quite as often.

It feels a little more vibrant than Tokyo. It is certainly less traditional than Kyoto. I think the festival will be fun this evening.

The hotel arranged a new room for us and moved are things. It is the exact same style of room but is in much nicer condition.

Our plan is to finish cooling off, resting, and getting cleaned up and then hit the town for some festival fun.

Tenjin Matsuri

The Tenjin festival was so fun tonight. We’re sitting in a taxi because we wandered out of range of a subway station. The food and drink booths went on and on. Everyone was out having a blast.

We started at Tenmangū shrine. It was packed. We proceeded to follow the food stalls that ran along the river. There many families out enjoying but most of the “kids” were in their teens and twenties.

I have never seen so many pretty girls in one place. I asked if Owen noticed the same, and he did. He got a lot of attention, so many smiles and giggles.

We had a blast walking along several river miles packed with stalls and everyone having a great time.

It is a very different festival than Gion Matsuri which takes itself very seriously. Tonight was all about fun.

Tomorrow, we’re going to do the same except the festivities run later into the evening and there will be fireworks!

Osaka is a beautiful city, particularly along the river in the evening.

We said goodbye to Hisashi’s family this morning. They were all so lovely and hospitable with us that it was sad to say goodbye.

before we left, Ya-San gave us another incredibly generous gift. He gave me a matching set of black pearl earrings to give to Michele to complete her set. He said that he had them in his shop. He runs a pawn shop. I could not believe his generosity.

We are sad but also very excited to go to Nagoya today to enjoy sumo!

We arrived in Nagoya in time to take a taxi to the sumo gymnasium which is adjacent to “Central Park” and Nagoya Castle.

We had time to take a peek at Nagoya Castle and to make it to the sumo match to see the last two levels of the sumo championship. The tournament had been going on for fifteen days.

Hisashi got us tickets for a very nice “box seat” which was a square with four cushions on the floor. We bought some snacks and some beer and settled in for some sumo!

Sumo is incredible. The atmosphere is laid back but the event is very serious. Sumo is partially a religious ceremony and partially a sport.

The ring has a “shrine” suspended over it. The large tassels hanging down denote the Cardinal directions (north, south, east, and west) respectively black, red, white, and green.

Each bout is very ceremonial and the wrestling is spectacular but it is only a part of the whole.

Owen, Hisashi, and I enjoyed about five hours of championship sumo including the award ceremonies and we loved every minute.

It was the perfect way to end a perfect vacation with my great friend.

I will always remember sumo.

Hisashi was obliged to help out with some things around the family home today so Owen and I were on our own. Regardless, Hisashi helped us plan our day.

Our first stop was the Naikū area of Ise Shrine. It is the inner area and took several stops on the bus to reach from where we are staying near the outer shrine.

This inner shrine area was very busy today. Busloads of business men and school kids arrived as we did. I was happy to see them.

There is a shopping district on the way just before crossing the bridge to the shrine.

We cleaned ourselves and visited the grounds stopping to honor several lesser shrines and the shrine where the Goddess Amerterasu (The sun goddess) was asked to resign. It is also where the sacred mirror that was given as a gift from the gods to the first emperor is kept.

While exploring the grounds, I came across a performance of some of the oddest music I have ever heard. I assume it is religious in nature because it did not sound very entertaining. It was cacophonous.

Amaterasu (天照)

Futami Okitama-jinja

We took a bus and a train to this photogenic shrine just south of Ise city.

When we saw that the shrine was still a mile walk from the station, we were somewhat dismayed. Fortunately, there was a shop that rented bicycles just outside of the station.

I would have liked an electric assisted bike but they were too small for my legs. I barely fit on the regular bike. They were still great fun.

Importantly, we were able to enjoy the beautiful shrine without being exhausted.

After our shrine visit. We were quite hungry. My phone was dead so I asked Owen to find us a place for lunch. “Maps” found a ramen place a little outside of town so we set off on our bikes.

I followed Owen through town, then past the residential neighborhood, then through the rice fields, then up into the hills.

The further out we got, the more tired, hungry, and hot we got. I was loving the adventure but it eventually got absurd.

“Maps” led us on a wild goose chase. We found ourselves at a “Ninja” amusement park that was mostly shut down and abandoned. We went inside to ask about a restaurant but it became clear that the restaurant was not in operation. The vibe of the amusement park ghost town was creeping Owen out. We were both in somewhat if despair.

We pedaled are way back to town but got lost. We got turned around trying to navigate riding on the left side of the road. Sweat was in our eyes and pouring down our backs. We were in a state of heat stroke and at each others throats.

We returned the bikes and got on the train scrambling for the shelter of our hotel.

We just made it back to our air conditioned room hungry and tired.

Imagine our relief when Hisashi told us that we were going to a ramen place that his niece Ripo recommended for dinner.

The ramen place was adjacent to the miso / soy sauce factory that used to be run by Hisashi’s relatives.

We have had a very “chill” day.

It seems we were all up for a while at various times in the night to enjoy the relaxing atmosphere of the guesthouse and Aso Bay.

This morning we are shifting between cleaning a bit, packing and organizing, napping, reading, and eating. We are not in any hurry and I think we are all reluctant to leave this paradise.

While we were fishing, Eiji-san’s wife Akane-san brought us a full home cooked dinner featuring sashimi, salad, Korean style (meat) sushi, and corn and squid for the barbecue.

We haven’t eaten our catch yet because again, this morning, Akane-san brought us an entire lunch. We didn’t have room to enjoy Nakagawa daikon miso soup or our fresh catch.

We were planning to bring Hisashi’s soup and our fish to enjoy back in Ise. We overlooked these items when we were packing.

Happily Akane-san was able to make a meal out of these items. My heart was filled when Hisashi shared this photo with me:

Akane-san found the fish in the fridge and the soup on the stove and once again worked her magic.

Pearls

We did have the pleasure of being invited to Eiji Uemura‘s workshop and gallery. He and his assistant Aki-san were so kind to show us around and explain his art, his vision, and his upcoming designs.

Designer | Uemura Pearl Culture Pearl Jewelry Artist Eiji Uemura | Uemura Pearl Culture

We were so fortunate to be welcomed and to have Hisashi with us to translate and explain. It was an inspirational visit. Our kind host was generous with his time to explain each piece, answer questions, and even ask for feedback all while Hisashi dutifully translated.

Eili-san’s work is gorgeous, fun, and provocative.

Check out our lapel pins

I will never forget the beauty of the Eiji-san’s artwork, his gallery, his guesthouse, and his hospitality.

Eiji-san helped me pick out an incredible anniversary present for Michele.

Driving

I drove back from Aso Bay. I will now say, it is not difficult at all to adjust to driving on the other side if the road.

Matsuzaka gyu

Once we regrouped, cleaned up, and took a bath, Hisashi invited us to a very fancy dinner.

A friend of his here in Ise owns a waygu (Japanese beef) restaurant. The beef is called matsuzaka and it is to Ise what kobe beef is to the city of Kobe.

Sachiko-san was very nice and visited with us until the restaurant started to get very busy about a half hour after we arrived. She used to be a Japanese language teacher and now owns the fanciest restaurant I have ever eaten in. She was very fun to talk to. She and Hisashi have a very friendly rapport.

Hisashi and I both ordered the beef and Ise shrimp set. Owen ordered the filet set.

It was a four course meal. First came drinks and salad /appetizers. I was in the mood for nihonshu (sake), and Sachi-ko san recommended Zuki It was the second best sake I have tasted

This dish included several pieces of sashimi. I benefited from Owen’s distaste for fish.

The Ise shrimp plate came next. These shrimp are more like small lobsters.

Next came the showcase course: matsuzaka gyu.

Everything was so delicious. Owen’s filet could be cut with a single chopstick.

Imagine our delight when dessert was served.

It was another very special occasion shared with good friends and my son.

We were stuffed and exhausted after dinner. We decided to regroup before yet another amazing occasion with friends.

FaceTime with Friends from Boulder

We have been in communication with several our our friends from college. We decided to make. FaceTime together and it was incredible. Hisashi came over to our room and we were able to chat with Arancha and Rodrigo in Madrid, Iggy in the south in Italy, and Federico in Venice.

I think we were all amazed. There are only a few dozen photographs in existence from our amazing months together yet now we can have a conversation around the world on a phone.

We were so pleased to see that we are still all happy, healthy, and beautiful.

Today, I will drive on the other side of the road.

I’ve never done it before.

We will be heading to a small bay on the coast to enjoy fishing.

We are starting off the morning enjoying plum water at Mother’s house

I’m doing it!

Ya-san (Hisashi-sensei’s brother) graciously loaned us his car.

Hisashi-sensei doesn’t currently have a driver’s license so my international driver’s license came in use.

Guesthouse

We are staying at the guesthouse of one of Hisashi’s brother’s (Ya-san) friends. He is an artist who makes artwork out of pearls that they farm here.

It is beautiful.

They farm oysters here for pearls.

Our host makes artwork from the pearls. His studio and gallery are on site. He has come to check in on us throughout the day and make sure we are happy and relaxed.

Fishing

We are going fishing now. Agi-san, the owner, has asked the workers to come clean the oysters now so that there is chum in the water for us.

Let’s catch fish!

We caught fish!

We caught several fugu we are not able to prepare safely.

We caught some other fish that we are barbecuing.

The hospitality that we are receiving here is incredible, even more beautiful than the place itself.

We spent the evening barbecuing, eating, drinking, and enjoying ourselves.

Of all of our days in Japan, today I will hold most dear. Fishing on the beautiful Aso Bay, spending time and having a wonderful dinner with my great friend and my son, swimming out to the shrine, and the incredible hospitality of our hosts will never be forgotten.