Owen is sleeping in this morning. I am hitting the city.
We have plans for this evening.
Teramachi-dori
I explored the shopping area of Teramachi-dori Street.
There were so many things I would have liked to buy as gifts. We are saving shopping for the end of the trip because we are carrying very little with us while traveling.
Honno-Ji
I did visit the Honno-ji temple while wandering around. It is a beautiful temple that offered free pamphlets to introduce visitors to Buddhism.
The pamphlet has been very helpful with my research on the religions of Japan.
Religion
I also visited another small temple where people visited to honor the departed. I lit a candle for my dad.
Arashiyama
We decided to skip Arashiyama. We were having too much fun around downtown.
Owen got a new outfit.
We’ve decided to see Hayao Miyazaki’s latest film that just came out.
In order to see the Dolby Cinema version, we had to wait for the late show.
As fans of Totoro, Ponyo, Kiki’s Delivery Service, Howl’s Moving Castle, Spirited Away, etc. It is very exciting for us, even though we won’t understand what they are saying. It will be fun to watch again back in the States once it is translated.
This film was quite different than Miyazaki-san’s other films. It was darker, featured a male protagonist, and was, for me, even less comprehensible on a literal level.
That being said, the animation was stunning the visuals were incredible. The landscapes and settings were sometimes sublime and mundane and at others outrageously fantastic.
Seeing it in the Dolby Cinema format was unlike anything I had ever experienced. Owen and I both loved it and decided that we had made the right decision to skip more sightseeing and attend this masterpiece.
This morning is the procession of the floats through Kyoto.
It’s supposed to be 97 degrees today with 80% humidity. I am working on getting hydrated and encouraging Owen to do the same.
I understand that part of the intent of this parade is withstanding pain and adversity, both for the participants and spectators. We’ll see how we do.
Bad Kami
On a side note, I may have picked up a bad kami. Perhaps, it is when I cursed the wind and rain on Fuji.
Susanoo (素戔嗚)
In any case, I keep dropping things: chop sticks, coins, my bag, and the other night a small bottle of saki which exploded in the convenience store and shattered. The store worker was very nice about it and was relieved when I offered to pay for it. I even pulled an unlucky fortune last night at the festival. It said that I would do poorly in trade, that I need to improve my faith in God, and that I should beware of the North Wind. Perhaps withstanding discomfort at the parade today will be just the thing.
Screenshot
I tied the fortune to the rack were bad fortunes are meant to be left.
I would have liked to have pulled a good fortune. People with good fortunes took their fortunes to the priest and received a bag of dried rice stalks. I am still going to express thanks for my good fortune as we visit shrines to be here traveling with my son.
Procession
Owen and I were able to get great spots for the procession. We were in the shade and we we next to where each float stops to present papers and a bundle of rice to an official.
The floats were larger than I could have imagined. It takes many men to pull them while many others ride on them. Owen and I were wondering how someone gets selected to pull while others are selected to ride.
Owen stayed to watch several floats but got hot and tired. I stuck around to watch several more floats and take pictures. Sadly, with my current luck, I accidentally deleted the photos as I was messing with settings on the camera.
The smaller floats were as interesting as the large ones.
Kamogawa River
After some lunch, I headed back to our place and admired the Kamogawa river.
It turns out that Owen went wading with some locals to cool off and dropped his phone in the river. He had to swim down into a pool to get it. He didn’t mind because it was blazing hot.
Kenninji Temple
while Owen was making like a wild duck, I ducked into the Kenninji Temple.
The temple is the oldest Zen Buddhist temple in Kyoto. Some great paintings were displayed there.
The following images are wall (curtain) paintings.
I was sweating bullets and had to get back to our place. On my way out, I realized that I missed the actual temple with it’s golden Buddha.
I think I’ll try to go back before we leave.
Owen and I regrouped and were about sick with heat stroke but we had to return the yukata to the rental shop.
We made it back and crashed out in the air conditioned room.
We have since recovered and bathed and are about to go out. Owen has some spots he has discovered that he wants to show me.
Pontocho
I read about an area of Kyoto where there are small streets packed with small restaurants so we went over to Pontocho.
It became clear that many other tourists read about this district. We could hear every world language except Japanese. It seems like Pontocho is a “tourist trap”. At least during the festival it is.
We high tailed it out of there even though we were starving.
Thankfully, Owen found a Chinese restaurant that was packed with Japanese in very lively spirits.
More Festival
I don’t know why I thought that the festival would slow down or shut down after the procession. If anything, it kicked up a notch.
The men pulling the floats had apparently started partying after their ordeal. The streets were full of half dressed float pullers.
A real treat was when we would stumble upon the temple relics being toted around town by groups of unruly bearers.
After some research, I’ve discovered that the procession during the days was to prepare the streets for the relics to be carried around town.
Shinkösai
I know that one of the relics is for Susano-no-Mikoto. It is called the Sanwaka. It’s six-sided and topped with a phoenix that holds a rice plant in its beak.
Another is for his consort Princess Kushi Inada (Kushinadahime). It is four-sided and topped with a round jewel. It is called the Shiwaka.
The third relic contains the deities of the eight children of Susano-o and Kushi-Inada. It’s eight-sided, topped with a phoenix, and weighs about two tons. It is called the Nishiki.
We had a great evening cruising around, enjoying the Japanese out having a great time and occasionally running into a procession of the artifacts.
The Gion Matsuri is a festival that has gone on for 1500 years! It is meant to keep pestilence that would accompany the rainy season away from Kyoto. Men of all ages participate in the processions.
I woke up to get a coffee. At 8:00, the sun is out and it is scorching. We are planning on taking things easy today and getting ready for tonight: Yoiyama.
Yoiyama
Festival highlight. One “yoi” means one more night before the processions on July 17. All floats shrine areas celebrating their respective deities and displaying their treasures are open and all musical troupes play music until 21:00-22:00, centered near the Shijo-Karasuma intersection.
Department Store
I took the bus to Central Kyoto for something to do out of the heat. Owen wanted to sleep in and hang around.
Yodabashi Camera was fun to walk around. It is immense. It is six floors and I could only handle exploring three of the floors. To give a sense of it’s immensity, they have a track inside for trying out bicycles.
Of course they had an Ohtani display. Japan is immensely proud of this guy.
After a nice curry karage (fried chicken) lunch I headed back home and laid low with Owen.
Gion Matsuri Festival
Gion Matsuri
Owen and I are now in a holding position waiting for the sun to set. Then it is festival time. We are in our yakata ready for festivities!
Video of Tea CeremonyVideo of Samisen PlayingVideo of Crane DanceVideo of Parade of Bells
We are in the midst of the Gion Matsuri Festival. Today will be exciting.
I started the day with an early morning stroll. It is hot and humid all ready at 9:00. I think we will have to hold off on our celebrations until it cools off a little.
I took a little “photo safari” with the new camera which sustained an injury.
I was incredibly upset but have gotten over it. We patched it up with a band aid and will be able to have it repaired in the States.
In the meantime, I am about to have a coffee and research kimono (yakata) rental for the festival. I will touch base with Owen regarding our options here in Kyoto.
There is so much to see and do and the festival adds so many more activities. Thankfully we are here for five days.
Gion Matsuri
I thought we might explore Nara or Amanohashidate but that isn’t happening. We have more than we can do here in Kyoto.
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Fushimi Inari Taisha
Although the festival is really starting to kick off, we decided to have an afternoon / evening experience in another part of Kyoto and it could not have worked out more perfectly. While so many people we coming to Gion we went out of Gion.
The thousands of Tori gates that lined the hike up Inari mountain celebrating the yokai Ianari made for a brilliant evening hike.
Not only were the gates spectacular, the forest was energizing. The smell of the cedars mixed with the incense at the mini shrines accentuated the pleasant gentle hike.
My favorite picture that I took
I have been researching Japanese deities and it was fun to recognize many of them an find more to learn about.
Bodhisattva – Bosatsu
We timed the hike to coincide perfectly with sunset.
Owen and I shared great conversations about what we have observed and what we believe in regarding or owen senses of spirituality.
Dinner
We were starving by the time we got back off of the train at Shijo station. We were tempted by so many restaurants but I had my heart set on a little spot right near our hotel. I’m glad we waited. I think that I might have had the best dinner of my life. It was a “mom and pop” restaurant with a counter, one table and one room for sitting on the floor (I don’t know what that is called yet). Their specialties seemed to be tempura, sashimi, and udon. I had tempura and sashimi,my typical order but this was the best. I may be spoiled for life.
The husband and wife were very friendly. They spoke almost no English but were very patient with us. I tried some of my new Japanese phrases like,”itadakimasu”, “oishi katta desu”, and “gochiso sama deshita”. These phrases seem to go along way. The mama-san taught me how to add the minced daikon to the tempura sauce. She indicated it was good for the stomach that way. She also taught me to wrap my last piece if maguro sashimi in the leaf that I would otherwise have pushed to the side. It was such a nice experience and the food was so delicious.
On our way out, the older couple walked us out and gave us the low formal bow. Owen and I both really appreciated them and the experience as we said our thank you’s and made our goodbye bows. We will be going back.
It is interesting to me how Japanese restaurants operate. This place is owned (presumably) and run by an elderly couple. They serve four tables essentially. I wonder how long they have been in business. I wonder if they are “successful”. I wonder how long they plan to continue. I can’t imagine a place like this existing in the States.
I miscalculated a bit on our travel today. I assumed that the Shinkansen Fuji station would be near to Fuji. It turns out it is an hour away.
We are now in a taxi taking what will be an expensive trip. It’s nicer than the bus but…
I am going to try to relax and enjoy the ride. We get to see Mt Fuji from every side.
Shinkansen
The train ride was delightful. It was so relaxing. The ride is so calm and quiet. It was cool in the car on a hot day. The seats recline way back. I had a beer. Owen brought a sandwich from the station. It was so pleasant watching the country go by that I actually wished it had lasted a little longer.
We were able to catch a bus easily and made it to our hotel just before check in. After checking in we did laundry mostly to dry out our clothes still moist from Fuji.
We are in Gion, the Geisha (Geiko) district. We are adjacent to the Yasaka Shire which is the heart of the Gion Matsuri Festival.
We enjoyed ramen in a tiny shop with a limited menu that I find charming.
Owen and I also each took a turn wandering the streets of Kyoto.
We are comfortable in our little cubby waiting for the top of Fuji to clear.
I am very glad we didn’t push to the top for sunrise because I believe it is all cold, rain, and clouds up there. We hope things will clear and warm.
We did get an early morning coffee and step outside to enjoy the sunrise in “The Land of the Rising Sun”.
I was able to achieve another of my Japan Bucket List activities: Rajio Taiso (ラジオ体操) which is radio calisthenics with Japanese people.
Rajio Taiso is a radio program that is broadcast at 6:30 in the morning nationwide. It was first broadcast in 1928. Many Japanese still participate most or every morning.
The staff tuned in and lined up outside of the hut and I immediately recognized what was happening and jumped right in.
the show plays cheerful music and an announcer calls out cheerful commands. A series of arm, leg, and core stretches ensues. I just followed along with what they were doing. It was fun, uplifting, and a great way to start the day.
Hopefully, we will have pictures from the top soon. We still have a four hour climb.
Climbing
It is not an easy climb. Thankfully huts provide excellent goals for taking a break. We are about two miles from the top.
The clouds at the top seem to be clearing as we approach.
The weather got worse and worse.
We made it!
By the end, I was literally crawling up the mountain. It had started to rain steadily and was cold.
It was a great feeling but there was no visibility. We retreated into the temple to warm up, dry off, and pray for thanks.
The Hike Downhill
The hike down hill was hell. It was relentless on my knees and as soon as we reached the top of Fuji, it started dumping on us.
The driving wind and rain made a miserable downhill hike unbearable. I didn’t think that I would make it.
Owen didn’t have any issues with old legs and he booked it down to Fifth Station leaving me in the ash. He got down 2 1/2 hours before I did.
Fujikawaguchiko Onsen Konanso
I had booked a special night’s stay anticipating we would want to celebrate our accomplishment. I am so glad that I did because we needed it to recover as much as anything.
Upon arrival and the hotel / resort, we were transported to another world, one of luxury and comfort. I don’t know how to describe our experience. Hopefully some photos will fill in the details.
Ryokan Dinner
It was an unforgettable evening.
Owen went out to walk around and take some photos. I guess that he didn’t have a big enough day.
We decided to go with “Plan E”. From where I am writing, I see it was the perfect plan.
It was very disappointing when we found the Fujikyu Higland Park closed early.
We figured that we now had time to enjoy the park during the day because we weren’t going to spend most of the day hiking.
We packed our bags and headed to the park where we left them in a locker.
When we got to the entrance of the park, it became evident that there was hardly anybody there. We had the whole place pretty much to ourselves.
The Park
The Fujikyu (Fuji-Q) Highland Park is incredible! It is as big as Six Flags and way cooler. We enjoyed Naruto Land where we enjoyed a Virtual Reality Naruto vs. Sauske fight.
Then we had to go on the giant roller coaster. My God. What an experience. I am not a fan of roller coasters but I could tell this one should not be missed. It was incredible. I felt like I was out of my seat most of the ride. And it was a long rollercoaster. I have not become a fan of roller coasters but I am glad I rode this one. I don’t think there are any in the states that compare. None that I have been on.
Before calling it a day at the park, we had to cross of one of my bucket list items: a Japanese haunted house. This haunted house was a four story “hospital of horror”. It was so gruesome and disturbing and frightening. It was amazing.
You walk through in your own group and there is only one flashlight per group. Before long Owen and I were fighting over it. I was so scared. I was either tiptoeing around corners or running down halls screaming. It is not something I ever have to do again but I am glad I did it. I hope I don’t have nightmares.
Fuji-sama
After having an absolute blast at the park we decided it would be a good idea to go to the hotel to shower off, cool down, and regroup before hiking Fuji.
The mountain hut where we had a reservation requested everyone arrive by 8:00 (20:00) so we had plenty of time.
I was a little concerned about getting a bus ticket but figured if we needed to we could take a cab to the Subaru 5th Station, the starting point of our hike.
We were able to catch the 4:00 bus to 5th Station. It’s an hour long bus ride that goes up and up and up. By the time we got to trailhead, it was cool and drizzling. Our rain suits were perfect.
The climb was not long but it is strenuous. It is also gorgeous. Owen and I cranked up music in our earbuds, out our heads down, and climbed. The trail is very well traveled and very well established. There are amenities along the way. I was surprised by how intense of a climb it is. There are even some sections where you have to scramble.
It was starting to get dark when we reached our hut at the 7th station.
We were greeted warmly, fed, and given tea. We arrived at the perfect time, hungry and ready for warmth.
This meal was great. The chai tea, the best I’ve had.
Now we are laying in our little bunk for two. We are cozy and tired and excited to go to the top tomorrow. The wind is howling outside and it is raining on and off. We have decided to skip sunrise so we can take our time in the morning. Everything is perfect.
The reason why things are perfect is because we gave up the idea of trying to do the whole mountain from the base. I realize now that it would have been possible but it wouldn’t have nearly been as fun of a day. A happy accident knocked us onto the correct path and I couldn’t be more pleased. Either can Owen.
I am sure to find the Rakuten Kobo at Yodabashi Camera. Owen will try for shoes and a rain cover for his backpack at Mont-bell. I am glad we checked for his rain cover. I had assumed his bag came with one because it has a pocket for it.
Bus
Shopping is complete. We are prepared for everything.
We’re on the bus. Leaving exactly on time.
The bus ride was great. The forests right outside of Tokyo are so lush. The little towns are so cute. There are small farms all over and rivers and valleys and mountains.
Kawaguchiko
We were dropped off at the Fujikyu Higland station and got are bearings in the station. Our hotel was a quick walk away.
Our hotel was nice enough and I was happy to learn that they had an onsen and did not mind that I had a tattoo (he asked me how big it was and I guess I passed). We did laundry and enjoyed the onsen.
Using the internet, Owen taught himself how to tie the obi on the yakata that were provided. Then he helped me tie mine.
Owen is getting very good at things here traveling in Japan. He is an excellent companion.
Our plan was to spend the evening at the amusement park. Things turned out much differently than we planned.
The amusement park closed at 6:00. We couldn’t believe it. We were so disappointed. We decided to go to dinner. I tried Yelp and there was a place down by the lake that was highly recommended.
We took a taxi to the other aide of town. And out down a back road. When the taxi pulled into a gravel parking lot, we discovered the restaurant was closed and it looked like it had been for a while.
Luckily there was a place to eat next door (it’s not surprising really because there are do many places to eat in Japan).
Dino Diner
The Dino Diner was an Americana themed resale that featured burgers made with locally grown, organic, and pesticide free produce. It was a cute place with four tables. You sit on the floor. Owen got a burger and an icecream float and I got sake (nihonshu) and a chicken sandwich. Oishi katta desu! It was delicious!
I think it was the best nihonshu that I have ever had. I don’t know if it was local or not but it was sweet and hot and great.
After dinner, we decided to take a walk down to the lake. There we discovered a lovely pedestrian path that circumnavigates the lake. It was such a nice night, we walked and walked. Once we got into town, everything was pretty much shut down. It was surprising because we were clearly in a resort area. There were bars and restaurants and boat rentals and it was dead quiet.
We continued walking…
Eventually we realized that we were in a city that seemed like a ghost-town. We continued walking.
We wanted to get a cab but there was no one out. We walked toward where there should be people, and nothing, no one.
We walked and walked.
Finally we found a road where cars passed by. Some were cabs. We tried waving them down but none would stop.
By this time we were tired and grumpy and frustrated. No taxi would stop. They had their lights on but they wouldn’t stop.
We walked and walked.
Finally we found a “Business Hotel”. I thought we were saved. The guy at the desk acted like he didn’t know what a taxi was when we asked if he could call one for us. Eventually, he called but then told us there were none.
Further down the road we found a fancy hotel. The girls at the desk were so nice and happy to call for us. After three or four phone calls, they told us there were none.
I was so frustrated. Owen suggested we hoof it home.
We wound up having a very nice, very long, very late night hike back to our hotel.
We barely made it back to take another bath before it closed, but we did.
Hiking Plan
In hindsight, the unexpected late night hike, helped us make a great decision. We had been debating about whether or not to hike Mt. Fuji from the base or from 5th station where most people start. We were so exhausted after the evening, we weren’t even sure we were going to try to summit. Hiking from Station 0 was out of the question.
Today we go to Disneyland. Each evening, as we head home on the train, we see droves of people on their way back from Disneyland Tokyo. They all look happy. I am very excited. I don’t think Owen or I know what to expect.
TDL
Tokyo Disneyland was fantastic. We did get tired, and hot, and hungry, but we had a great experience even though we called it quits after about four hours.
Owen and I both got nervous lining up at opening. There were so many people! We also seemed to be the only ones without an umbrella for the sun.
The line moved quickly however and soon we were inside where it was not crowded at all. The longest line that we waited in was half an hour for Space Mountain.
Owen didn’t know what to expect. He seemed to enjoy himself very much. I did. I had doubts when he ripped the Micky Mouse ears off of the sunglasses he bought because it was so bright today.
The rides were lovely and air conditioned. We rode Pirates of the Caribbean twice. The second time for ambience.
Additionally, we rode Thunder Mountain Rail Road, The Haunted Mansion, and It’s a Small World.
Some of the ideas presented at Disneyland seem a little out of date. I loved the end of It’s a Small world where all of the cultures mix together in a utopian setting.
A cowboy and Indian in perfect harmony!
We came back to the hotel to rest up and maybe head back to Disneyland tonight but I think we’re thinking of going to Shibuya Crossing instead.
Owen and I made it over to Shibuya after a failed attempt to have dinner at a very trendy pizza restaurant recommended by a friend.
We didn’t have reservations on a Monday evenIng at 6:00. They couldn’t seat us. Maybe we will try when we get back to Tokyo.
Owen was in the mood for pizza and the neighborhood we were in was very cool. We found a bar that makes pizza and specializes in darts, a “dart cafe”.
I was quiet and the waiter was very friendly and talkative. We enjoyed a nice pizza, drinks, and watching some outstanding darts players. The dart machines were like giant video game consoles that when you throw well, it shows you a video of your form. I think the cabinets were networked because one of the players was following up with someone on his phone. I think they were having a networked competition.
At Shibuya, we made the “Shibuya Crossing” and went to see Hachiko. We gave the “good “boy” a pet. Owen didn’t want a picture because there were so many tourists jockeying for shots.
After admiring the view of the people and the lights, we did a little shopping. I realized that I had not had sushi yet during our trip and that my sake level was low.
We found a “conveyor belt” sushi place and remedied that situation. I enjoyed eight pieces of delicious sushi, two sake’s, Owen, who was still running on pizza, had a soda and we split a melon sherbet.
We got somewhat lost in the train coming home. Owen blamed it on the sake and took over navigating. He’s excellent traveling on trains an a fantastic travel companion.
We got a little bit of a late start today because of “Sleepy Head”.
Once up, we grabbed onigiri from the Family Mart. I like tuna and mayo. Owen got green veggie and seaweed. He liked his. I had a better brand the other day.
Onigiri
We had some shopping to do today. The goal was to get rain gear at Mont-Bell for our upcoming hikes.
Rain Gear
We started the search at the beautiful store In Ginza.
Ginza
They didn’t have my size so I headed to Akihabara to try.
Akihabara
Owen was more interested in hanging around Ginza and drawing in his notebook. We parted ways and planned on meeting back at the hotel.
The Mont-Bell near Akihabara was in a very hip area. There were trendy little shops all over and there were few tourists around.
Not only did I get the rain gear, I picked up some capris that Owen said I needed. I’m so glad he did. I love them.
After shopping, I stopped by a cool bar for a sake (nihonshu).
Sake (Nihonshu)
After my break, I walked to Akihabara proper.
It was better than I remember it.
The sun came out and it was so hot. I also missed Owen so I headed home.
Dinner with Nakagawa-sensei
Tonight we are meeting my old friend Hisashi for dinner. I can’t wait to see him.
Hisashi-sensei met us at the Meguro train station because he had a place he wanted to take us for dinner.
It was so great to see him. We were immediately comfortable as always. We even hugged at the train station.
He took us to a place that only makes one dish: tonkatsu. Tonkatsu is a breaded and fried pork cutlet. I thought he had said that we were going to a tonkotsu ramen place. I was pleased because I love tonkatsu.
Regardless, the place was amazing. They only make the one dish. It comes with cabbage salad, miso soup and rice. There was a line out the door which gave us a chance to catch up.
Hard work appreciated
After dinner, we went for a drink. Hisashi brought photos of college days. We learned some of what he was up to. Hisashi got to know Owen a bit. We talked about the amazing plan for our upcoming trip to the “holiest city in the entire world,” Ise.
Hisashi learned that Owen studied some Japanese and began teaching and quizzing him. He has been Nakagawa-sensei since I met him.
We are going to have an amazing time in Ise. We will get a chance to meet Hisashi’s family Including his mother, brother, sister and their children. We will also meet Hisashi and some of his friends when we come back to Tokyo.
